photo: Matthew J. Nelson
This canyon is one of Arizona’s natural wonders and a premier destination for hikers, climbers and members of the San Carlos Apache Tribe. The remote chasm, located between Globe and Superior, has long beckoned hikers in search of refreshing swimming holes, and the towering rhyolite hoodoos offer some of the best climbing in Arizona. For hundreds of years, Apache families have relied on the canyon’s sweet acorns as a traditional food source.
The trailhead to the canyon is less than two hours from Tucson, but the moment you enter this hidden realm you’ll forget you’re in the Southwest. After the first dry and arduous mile you’ll become enveloped by a lush forest that is rarely penetrated by sunlight. Giant sycamore trees with their ghost white bark grow alongside alders, ash and cottonwoods.
Within minutes you’ll hear the sweet sound of trickling water. Look closely while you make your way downstream and you’ll see canyon tree frogs hopping across the smooth boulders and black hawks flying through the treetops. Coatimundis are common here, and black bears have been known to wander through. The last time I sent a friend alone into the belly of this beautiful beast, he emerged with stories of a face-to-face encounter with a mountain lion. The place is incredibly rich with biodiversity.
When the canyon opens up you’ll encounter the first swimming hole, an Olympic sized pool surrounded by chocolate brown cliffs. This is an ideal destination for day hikers without technical experience. Enjoy the water and the clear blue sky, and either head back the way you came, or continue downstream for more adventure.
Thirty minutes later you’ll arrive at the famous Five Pools area, where the creek plunges into massive pools of dark water. You’ll need ropes and technical gear to navigate the vertical cliffs and waterfalls from here, and if you make it to the fourth cataract you’ll enjoy the largest natural pool in Arizona’s backcountry. Swimming here is something you’ll never forget. For more information on the technical details, get your hands on a copy of Todd Martin’s Arizona Technical Canyoneering.
Endangered Habitat
The Resolution Copper Company (a British and Australian venture) purchased a mine nearby, and they have wanted to expand their operations for years. Despite Eisenhower’s presidential order from 1955 to forever protect this area, in addition to protests from native tribes, conservation groups and recreationalists, Arizona’s governor and senators are supporting a land swap that would allow copper mining 7,000 feet below the surface. Handing over public land to a mining company with a hideous history of environmental devastation and human rights abuses would completely destroy Devil’s Canyon. You can help protect your public land by writing to your representatives (www.house.gov/writerep/).
Making Your Escape
Drive north on Oracle Road/Hwy. 77 to the town of Globe, then take Hwy. 60 west toward Superior. Drive south on Magma Mine Road for exactly 1.1 miles then turn left on an unmarked dirt road and follow it for two miles. A 4-wheel-drive high clearance vehicle will deliver you to the trailhead at a windmill and old corral. From there, walk along the main drainage of Hackberry Creek for almost a mile to the confluence of the canyon. n
Matthew J. Nelson is a local outdoor educator, guide and conservationist.
