photo: Matthew J. Nelson
Located at the crossroads of the Sonoran Desert, Chihuahuan Desert, Rocky Mountains and Sierra Madre, the Chiricahua Mountains contain biodiversity unlike anywhere else. In all, there are eight amphibians, 46 species of reptiles, 71 species of mammals and more insects than people have been able to accurately document. Over 300 bird species have been spotted here, making it one of the most important bird habitats in North America. A total of over 1,000 plant species cover the Chiricahuas, some of which are found nowhere else on Earth.
From the lush canyons of the eastern range near Portal to the dense pine and spruce forests near Chiricahua Peak, there is more adventure to be found here than you can imagine. All the hiking options are beautiful, but it doesn’t get any better than the Heart of Rocks Trail within Chiricahua National Monument. It’s among the most visually stimulating hikes in Arizona, and the best way to enjoy it is along a 9.8-mile loop that takes you deep into the heart of this storybook landscape.
Start at Massai Point, follow the Ed Riggs Trail down a beautiful drainage, then turn right on the Hailstone Trail. This expertly carved route contours along the hillside and affords hikers amazing views into Rhyolite Canyon. The distant hoodoos are spectacular, and one of the most impossible looking formations is the Totem Pole; 137 feet high and only three feet wide.
Follow Upper Rhyolite Canyon Trail through manzanita and white oak forest, turn left on the Sarah Deming Trail, and then enter the Heart of Rocks. After gawking at the incredible formations along the 1.1 mile trail, hike back to Big Balanced Rock Trail and check out the trail’s namesake – a 1,000-ton boulder perched atop a tiny platform. Continue along this scenic route to the Mushroom Rock Trail, which leads you back around to the Ed Riggs and Hailstone Trails where you started many hours before.
A hike through Chiricahua National Monument is a healthy workout, a delightful treat for the imagination, and an opportunity to connect with nature on a deeper level.
Making Your Escape
From Tucson, head east on I-10 toward El Paso. At Willcox (exit 336), exit the interstate and follow the frontage road into the town of Willcox. Turn right (south) on Highway 186 at the sign for Chiricahua National Monument. Enjoy the scenic drive through the grasslands for 31 miles, then turn left (east) on Highway 181. The Visitor Center is 6 miles beyond this intersection. To reach the Heart of Rocks Trail, drive up Bonita Canyon Road for 8 miles to Massai Point.
For more information, visit NPS.gov/chir
Matthew J. Nelson is a local outdoor educator, guide and conservationist.
